Bardsey March 2011

 I was asked along on a sea kayking trip to Bardsey with overnight  stay.  I love Bardsey but did wonder if I would be up to the challenge as it was with a very strong group and the sea can be alive with tidal currents especially on spring tide and although the long range forecast was good at this time of year anything can happen with weather.
But the reasons to go got the better and I jumped into getting ready for it. I have been in challenging seas before  and coped well ...I just needed to grab more chances to build up my self belief.
And wow did I make the right call  as  I have been mulling over the beautiful scenes of Bardsey and the Lleyn Peninsula  and how well me and my boat coped with the sea conditions and holding my own in the group.
The trip was organised (brilliantly as usual) by Kev and Gill for  her 50th birthday.  There are some tricky elements to consider ( the black art) as the tidal force changes the line of padding and missing the island is a real possibility and by how much depends on the speed of paddler, wind, tidal rate etc...it is rocket science to me sometimes!

Kev and Gill (whoops-water on lens)

Bardsey is 'Ynys Enlli' in Welsh which means Island of Currents. Enlli means 'to win' in welsh and those tidal races that swirl around the headlands of the end of the Lleyn Penninsula and Bardsey do feel like they intend to take no prisoners if the mood strikes them.
This was my third trip to Bardsey and as always it seems to envelope me in a little timeless capsule when I am on the island but the feeling of endless space is overpowering when I stand on the highest point, Mynydd Enlli.

The journey along the cliffs of the Lleyn was gentle enough and we had some tidal help from the ebb. But as we approached the end we had to head at a more westerly angle  to avoid being pulled into Swnt Enlli ( Bardesey Sound) by the force of the tide. We had to get past Maen Bugail (a rock) before we could start turning for the island. I could hear the roar of water gnashing it's teeth at me as put more welly into my stroke to avoid the maw of the sound.

Kev with Bardsey in the backround

As we lined up with the island we then hugged the shore to pull up on Porth Solfach for our first footfall on Bardsey. After a quick bite on butties we headed south meeting some seals on the way. Some have beautiful spaniel like faces with large soft brown eyes, some are shy and stay away or slide off rock into the safety of the water and some follow our kayaks, snorting  loudly to shoo us away. I always try to keep a repectful distance. One big lad tangoed me with a faceful of water when he surfaced and splatted me with water.

spot the seal

A short paddle on a glassy sea led us to Henllwyn where the slipway is and Richard (who works for the Bardesy trust and surveys birds) brought our stuff on a mini little truck to the cosy house (outside grass loo, no electricity and no shower but perfect)

the  cosy house

cosy house with us lot and Richard and Gizelle (Bardey Trust people)

After a desperately needed cuppatea we headed off to walk to the light house with working fog horn. The last time I stayed on the island it was bellowing out a mournful tune into the small hours. Each fog horn has it's own tune and Bardsey one is carved into my brain after a sleepless nite.

It has been a place of pilgrim for centuries and it is said that 20,000 saints are buried by the old abbey.

Pilgrims are said to have left from the south west side of the end of the Penninula where there is a holy freshwater spring that comes out of the cliff by Porth Felen

'Respect the remains of 20,000 saints who were buried on near this spot'

The farmer who lives on the island (who sea kayaks as well) said when area around abbey was excavated countless skulls were found.










We all shared a hearty meal with the whole population of the island that Kev and Gill had invited along- the lovely family with 2 teenage children and Richard and Gizelle, the bird survey people. They were hopeful the 'Manxies'-manx shearwaters would show up that evening as they tend to return to nest early Spring and like to come back when it is really dark as they cannot cope very well on land and waddle into their burrows. However, they stayed out to sea.The last time I was on the island the sound of their calls was like ghost cackling in the night and it would send chills down your neck.
I woke the next morning to the sound of a wild wind howling at my window and I thought I'd better have a good look at the sea before setting me and my boat in it.
                                                                                    

                                                                                  

 

The end of the peninsula from top of Bardsey

After sticking sausages in the oven we headed for the top of the mountain to check out the sea state. it was swirly and I found it hard to figure out what the messy looking water was up to. From on high we decided on a journey route and marched down to our sausage bap breakfast.









Once on the water it was lively enough straight away (by my standards) but the banter was cheerful and lively so I  felt full of adventure and up for it and I just loved the feeling of my new boat and me riding the tide and roller coaster waves as we headed north east towards the high cliff of the land in the distance. We kept a really tight group so we could see each other and communicate more easily just in case......!
Getting into the right position is vital as if you miss your place you could end up going off to Pembroke so constant power and focus is needed and my adrenadine was keeping me and my boat right on track.

We didn't head straight into shore but took the long way home between the goal mouth of the Gwylans (islands) and had a lunch stop at Porth Ysgo where 2 large birds of prey were being haranged by crows.

Gwylan Fawr and Gwylan Bach

Gill, Christian, john with Bardsey and Pen y Cil behind

Eventually we landed at Aberdaron and the usual car shuttle connected the right people up with the right kayaks and cars.

dreamboat

Another top trip was praised and pondered over a table full of tea, cappucinos and scones on the balcony of the hotel overlooking the beach in the gorgeous sunshine.